Venturing away from the main trail to Everest Base Camp, we were delighted by the peacefulness along our path, enjoying the opportunity to explore less frequented areas of this highly popular trekking destination. Frequently being the sole group at lodges allowed us to fully appreciate authentic Sherpa hospitality and engage in leisurely conversations with the lodge hosts about their daily lives. This glimpse into the daily life of these secluded Himalayan villages was invaluable, offering us the chance to observe, learn, interact, taste, and immerse ourselves in Sherpa culture and customs.
Traditional Farming Villages
We learned about farming in the harsh mountain landscape, including witnessing an hour old baby calf getting her first drink of milk. It was born overnight at our guide's family lodge in Phortse, and we stumbled upon it out in the corral as we were getting ready to set out on the trail, leaving our daughters yearning to linger. Additionally, watching Sherpa children their age herding yaks on high mountain trails; or passing them by in their freshly ironed school uniforms, in some cases taking an hours-long to walk to school; or seeing Sherpa kids collecting dung from their fields for fuel after a day of school. These experiences were captivating for our daughters, and as a parent, you are aware that they are gradually absorbing the significance of these encounters, gaining valuable insights into the world.
Trying Local Dishes
From participating in Nepali and Sherpa greetings to savoring hearty meals of dal bhat (dish of rice, lentils and curry), momos (traditional dumplings), and thukpa (Sherpa noodle stew), we felt a warmth in our welcome as we tucked into cozy Sherpa-run lodges after a solid day of hiking. We were offered tastes of local specialities off the menu such as fermented wild mushrooms, Eramang, a mountain black pepper harvested in the surrounding hillsides, and potato pancakes with a fresh local spicy nak (female yak) cheese sauce -- all at the amusement of our Sherpa hosts as we didn't even come close to tolerating their spice levels. Our girls received extra praise when they ventured into tasting these dishes, and it was often the biggest pride of the lodge owner when they asked for more.
Connecting with Sherpa Children
The way our girls so naturally connected with the local children was lovely to observe and a refreshing way for all of us to exchange and share our stories. One afternoon after some tea and rest from our day of trekking, Tenzing invited us to visit his aunt's boarding hostel just a "short walk" from our lodge. It was tempting to rest our weary feet, but I had a sense this was an opportunity we should not pass up. So after some coaxing, we convinced our girls to put their trekking shoes back on and we wound our way around the edges of potato fields and stone walls through what seemed equivalent to a corn maize back home. Following another mini trek, we finally caught sight of a woman in a chuba (traditional Sherpa dress) calling for Tenzing. We were then invited into the hostel's kitchen, where a few cooks were peeling potatoes and preparing dinner. Sherpa children between the ages of 3 and 18, hailing from remote villages, reside at the hostel while attending the prestigious grade school in Khumjung. After politely refusing several offers of tea, as we had already consumed enough earlier in the day, we entered the study halls. Inside, we watched the Sherpa children diligently working on their homework. Before long, they enthusiastically began asking our daughters questions about their lives in order to practice their English. By the end of our visit, we were surrounded by the inquisitive students and had to leave refusing several gracious offers of dinner as we had to head back to our lodge before dark.
A Window into Buddhist Beliefs and Traditions
Along the trail to Phortse, we arrived at the village of Kyangjuma, where we stopped for tea at Tenzing's aunt's lodge. To our amazement, we discovered ourselves enjoying tea in the company of monks from Tengboche Monastery, the largest Buddhist monastery in the region. They were gaily creating intricate butter sculptures and spindle-like objects with sticks and strings. As our daughters have a knack for crafting, we asked about their activity. It transpired that they had been asked by Tenzing's aunt to conduct a multi-day Buddhist prayer ritual for her husband, who was unwell. While having tea, we listened to their account of relocating him from their isolated mountain village for heart treatment, and how the monks were present to ensure his recovery. We were invited to join them the next day for their private prayer ceremony. We were given homemade cookies by Tenzing's aunt, which proved to be very useful as trail snacks during one of our toughest trekking days so far.
Bidding Farewell
As we said goodbye to our Sherpa guides and the majestic Himalayan peaks, we realized that this journey had been truly remarkable. Descending from the heights of the upper Khumbu region, we felt a mix of achievement and appreciation, treasuring the moments of bonding, wonder, and excitement throughout. Boarding the turboprop plane in Lukla to head back to Kathmandu, I was moved to see my daughter holding onto Nima, finding it difficult to articulate her gratitude and bid farewell. He needed to go back to his village, Khumjung, and seek additional guiding opportunities or paint houses to supplement his earnings. Clutching the katak, a ceremonial Buddhist prayer scarf given to her by Nima, she watched him trek back up the trail towards the majestic Himalayan peaks.
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